Support: LeakAlertor 6000

Support

LeakAlertor 6000

LeakAlertor Differences

Which LeakAlertor do I have, the 5000 or the 6000?

•  The LeakAlertor 6000 has sensors exiting the enclosure, while the LeakAlertor 5000 does not.

•  The 6000 has a hole on the front (right side) of the enclosure to permit access to the reset button.

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LeakAlertor Installation

Where is the unit placed for the best performance?
Make sure to have sensors separateThe LeakAlertor can be placed anywhere along the rim of the toilet tank. More important than the location, is to make sure that the sensors do not touch each other or the side of the tank. Be sure the sensors are clear of any parts inside the tank such as the flapper, fill valve, etc. If the sensors are touching each other, the sides of the tank, or parts inside the toilet, gently bend the sensors away from the obstruction. The sensors do not take a lot of effort to bend. While making adjustments, support the sensors by holding the protective plastic tubing between your thumb and forefinger, and make adjustments with your other hand.
Can the LeakAlertor be put inside of the tank?
No. The LeakAlertor 6000 is designed so that the enclosure hangs outside the tank, with the sensors inside the tank (as shown in the installation video). Only the LeakAlertor Connected and LeakAlertor SmartStop are designed to be inside the toilet tank. These products will be available during the 4th quarter 2016.
Can I bend the sensors?
Yes, but do so gently. The sensors do not take a lot of effort to bend. When you are adjusting the sensors, hold them between your fingers where they enter the plastic tubing for support with one hand, while you adjust the sensors with your other hand. You may need to adjust/bend the sensors during your initial installation if they are touching each other, the tank sides, or parts inside the toilet. Once the unit is installed, you should not need to make any further adjustments.

LeakAlertor Operation

My LeakAlertor isn’t flashing any lights when I flush the toilet…is this right?
How loud is the LeakAlertor?

We describe the audible alert as being louder than the “chirp” you hear when your home’s smoke alarm battery is going bad, but quieter than when the smoke alarm is actually going off. You should be able to clearly hear the LeakAlertor from at least 30 feet away, even if the bathroom door is closed.

What are the wires sticking out of the LeakAlertor?

The wires are actually “sensors” that connect to the circuit board inside the LeakAlertor. As the water rises and falls along the length of the sensors, the LeakAlertor is able to calculate the rate of change of the water height. The proprietary software developed by our engineering team analyzes this information in order to determine if your toilet is leaking, constantly running, or is about to overflow.

A leak was detected…now what?

I just replaced my flapper - do I need to reset my LeakAlertor?
Yes, simply press the reset button.
I just replaced my flapper, and my LeakAlertor is still indicating a leak... why?
Once the reset operation is complete if the LeakAlertor is still indicating a problem, unfortunately you probably still have a leak. We suggest contacting a local plumber to find out the cause.
The RED lamp is flashing, but I used dye tablets and there is no coloring in the bowl... why did the LeakAlertor indicate a leak?
The LeakAlertor is able to detect intermittent leaks and alert the user during the flush, even if the toilet has temporarily stopped leaking. Generally speaking, once a toilet begins to leak intermittently (periodically), the flapper will continue to deteriorate until the leak becomes virtually continuous.
What causes my flapper to leak?
The primary reasons that a flapper might leak:

  • The flapper deteriorates over time due to cleaning solvents, repetitive use and/or hard water.
  • A small piece of foreign matter may be lodged under the flapper lip.
  • The flapper in your toilet may not be the correct make, model, or size.
What should I do if my toilet is leaking or if the flapper is stuck?
In most cases, the flapper should be replaced. Flappers are readily available in the plumbing aisle of your local hardware or home improvement store. You can also call your local plumber to replace it for you.

General Questions

Can I move the LeakAlertor to a different toilet?

Yes. Unlike previous versions of the LeakAlertor, the LeakAlertor 6000 can be easily moved from one toilet to another. Press the reset button on the LeakAlertor, remove the unit from the current toilet, and place it on the rim of the new toilet. Press the reset button again, it’s that simple.

Although you can transfer the LeakAlertor to different toilets, we recommend placing a LeakAlertor on each toilet in order to maximize the opportunity to detect leaks when they actually occur, as well as identifying wide-open flappers and imminent overflows.

The previous LeakAlertor would go off when I was in the shower or using a hairdryer. Will the new LeakAlertor do the same thing?

No. The LeakAlertor 5000 – the previous generation of LeakAlertor – was designed to detect and analyze water movement inside the toilet tank through translational vibration. This occurs when water moving inside of the tank causes the tank to vibrate slightly, which produces distinct sounds. Unfortunately, hair dryers, bathroom fans, running showers, etc., also produce a lot of sound, which could sometimes lead to a “false positive” indication on the 5000. The LeakAlertor 6000 works in a completely different way. The LeakAlertor 6000 operates by directly measuring the rate of change of the water in the toilet tank, so vibration and sound is never a problem.

How do I stop the LeakAlertor from beeping?

Press and hold the reset button until the red light comes on (solid, not blinking). If you’re working on the toilet we recommend removing the battery until your repairs are completed.

The sensors go into the water…can I receive a shock?

No.  The LeakAlertor is completely safe to use and harmless.

Can the unit get wet? What happens if I accidently drop it in the toilet or in the tank?

The LeakAlertor has been designed so that it can be cleaned or even sprayed with water without affecting its operation.  If the unit is accidentally dropped in the water, remove the top cover and remove the battery.  Leave the unit and battery somewhere safe for 48 hours to allow time for the moisture to evaporate.  After 48 hours, install the battery and put the top cover back on.  The unit should power up normally and can now be placed back on the toilet.

Do not attempt to dry the unit off with a towel, paper towel, hair dryer, etc.  Doing so may damage the product and void the warranty.

Ask the Engineers

Is the LeakAlertor 6000 able to collect information?

Yes, but this is an option. The software operating the LeakAlertor 6000 is very dynamic. It performs a wide range of operations in order to monitor and analyze your toilet’s operation. The LeakAlertor 6000 is designed for use in homes and small businesses, and although it is able to process a large amount of data, the 6000 does not collect or store this information.

Our LeakAlertor Connected series of products coming out in the 3rd quarter 2016 will have many of these features, including wireless transmission of data. These products are designed with property managers in mind.  The LeakAlertor 6000 Evaluation Units, which provide and display substantial data in real time, are available to property managers, hospitality, and water agency professionals.

What do the Alerts mean?

*DURING the entire flush cycle the LeakAlertor will flash/beep to give you a status indication.

Alerts Flashes/Beeps Diagnosis Action Required
Green alert circle Continuous Flashes No problem! No action required!
yellow alert circle Flashes (after all other alerts) Battery is low and needs to be replaced
red alert circle 2 Flashes + 2 Beeps Toilet has a leak Repair necessary. Replacing flapper is recommended
2 Flashes + 1 long Beep, followed by 2 short Beeps Faulty fill valve Replace fill valve (Fluidmaster 400 fill valve is recommended)
Continuous Flashes + Beeps Flapper is stuck open or toilet is about to overflow Shut off water to toilet immediately!! (Alerts don’t stop until problem is corrected, reset button is hit, or LeakAlertor battery dies).

  Print

LeakAlertor® 6000 Battery Replacement Instructions

Be sure to check out the 1 Minute Video Instructions at www.leakalertor.com

Materials needed:
• CR2032 Battery (available at most hardware stores, pharmacies, and grocery stores)
• Flat-bladed screwdriver or butter knife
• Toothpick (or other similar small, non-metallic object

  1. Press the reset button to place the unit into the RESET mode, then remove unit from the tank.

    Step 1 of battery replacement

  2. Remove the back of the enclosure by lightly pressing a screwdriver or butter knife through the front slot. Remove the board from the enclosure. (Do not use the sensors to pull the board out of the enclosure!)

    battery-2

  3. Remove the old battery with a toothpick and slide the new battery into place with the “+” side facing UP. (The unit will automatically go into RESET mode.)

    battery-3

  4. Place the board back into the enclosure. Reattach the back so the circular notch faces inward and to the left.

    battery-4

  5. Place the unit back onto the toilet, and replace the tank lid.

    battery-5

DCN: LA6KBRI 03/16

Guides Icon
LA 6000 User's Guide

Basic instructions to install, test and use the LeakAlertor 6000

LeakAlertor 6000 User’s Guide 

 

 

Battery Replacement Guide

How do I replace the battery in my LeakAlertor?

LeakAlertor 6000 Battery Replacement Guide (English)

LA 6000 Evaluator's Guide

Evaluating the LA 6000’s functions and alerts.

LeakAlertor 6000 Evaluator’s Guide

Videos icon
LeakAlertor Videos
Coming soon.
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Dye Tablets

5 Reasons why dye tablets are not accurate:

The LeakAlertor takes away the frustration of high water bills, and saves you money! Unlike dye tablets, the LeakAlertor is constantly at work checking for silent leaks, wide-open flappers, and faulty fill valves. It alerts you before you leave the bathroom with a “beep” and blinking LED during the flush cycle.

1) Errors are made in using dye tablets.
Often times, dye tablets are used incorrectly. Some people have mistakenly put the tablet in the toilet bowl rather than the toilet tank…test ruined! Some have put the tablet in the tank, and flushed the toilet immediately…test ruined! Some people drop the tablet in the tank, but then walk away and forget…again, test ruined!

2) Not all toilet leaks are caught by dye tablets.
Dye tablets can only detect one type of leak – a leaking flapper – and only if it’s leaking at the time of the test. However, stuck flush valves, wide-open flappers, phantom flushes, and running toilets are all common leaks not detected by dye tablets.

3) By the time you use a dye tablet your toilet may have already been leaking for weeks, or even months.
Often times, homeowners don’t realize a toilet is leaking because they think a leak should mean there is water on the floor. However, the most common leaks occur either at the flapper, or where the tank and bowl connect. These leaks occur inside the toilet, and are almost always invisible.

4) Intermittent leaks are often missed by dye tablets.
Just because your toilet isn’t leaking at the moment of testing doesn’t mean it wasn’t leaking an hour ago, or won’t be leaking an hour from now. Also, when a flapper first begins to leak, the amount may be too small for dye tablets to detect.

5) It’s not easy to get dye tablets.
Few hardware stores actually sell them, and it’s a hassle to contact your water utility for free tablets. You can buy them on-line, but you have to pay for shipping and wait for them to arrive. Meanwhile, your toilet continues to leak, and your water bill gets even higher!

7 Reasons why the flapper/flush-valve won't close:

1)  The flapper is “stuck” to the overflow pipe.
One observable symptom: it is not bobbing or floating in the water, regardless of the water height, and appears to be partially or fully upright.

2)  The chain is tangled.
A chain link can get stuck on the metal clip or loop over the top of the lever arm. Although an improper chain length causes many of these problems, “slapping” the flush handle can also cause the chain to hang up.

3)  A clogged drain/obstructed pipe produces back pressure through the flush valve seat.
The obstruction doesn’t allow the water level inside the tank to drop low enough for the flapper to seat properly. In this instance, the flapper appears to “hover” in the water above the flush valve seat. A clogged or obstructed drain pipe is the most common reason for toilets to overflow the bowl.

4)  A “universal” replacement flapper is purchased.
When a “universal” replacement flapper is purchased, it does not seat properly on the flush valve. Flappers should be purchased according to the type of flush valve used because universal flappers can leak and/or fail to seat up to 50% of the time.

5)  The flush handle/lever is old, defective, or “sticking” to the inside of the toilet tank.
Old or defective equipment can result in the flapper being held open.

6)  The flapper hinges are weakened and/or degraded.
This allows the flapper to slide to the side and not seat properly on the flush valve. (Note: the water flow from the fill valve can also push the flapper to one side if it is above 60 PSI.)

7)  A flapper’s buoyancy doesn’t become “negative” until the tank completely evacuates.
This does not allow the flapper to seat properly. Although there are several known causes (including toilet design), the most common is a clogged or obstructed drain pipe, which creates back pressure into the tank through the flush valve.


5 Common reasons why wide-open flappers often go undetected:

1)  No one is home to hear it running.
Often times, a person will use the bathroom before they leave their home (or business). In this case, a wide-open flapper would not be detected until the person returned home and realized the problem. This could be hours, or even the following day.

2)  The bathroom is not used frequently.
A wide-open flapper in secondary bathrooms (a finished basement or guest bathroom) can go undetected for days or weeks, wasting a tremendous amount of water and resulting in a high water bill.

3)  Hearing impaired/challenged people may fail to recognize a problem exists.
People with moderate to severe hearing loss may be unable to hear the running water. People afflicted with tinnitus may be unable to distinguish the sound of the running water from their tinnitus.

4)  The sound of the toilet tank refilling is a muted hum.
The initial flush of a toilet is loud, brief, and occurs while the user is still in the bathroom. However, the refilling of the toilet is quieter, prolonged, and typically finishes after the user has left the bathroom. Therefore, the user is unaware when the flapper remains wide-open.

5)  Background noise can easily mask the sound of a wide-open flapper or flush valve.
Examples include central air conditioners and HVAC systems (while the fan is operating); ceiling and window fans; music and/or TV; etc.